I.T. guys .... Wifi question

[Thunderheads]

Hey all ....

Computer geeks wanted!

 

My modem from my internet provider is a dual  ....hardline and wifi .......our computer is in the basement and there are some spots in the house where the signal isn't the greatest ........

 

Is there a cheap way to boost the signal in those certain areas around the house?

 

Any and all suggestions welcomed, and thanks in advance....

[soapbox]

Just move the modem to a spot that doesn't get interference.

[Thunderheads]

Just move the modem to a spot that doesn't get interference.

If it were that easy, ....I'd do that

 

Computer is in a 'landing' area in the basement .... modem is hardline .....so it's staying there

[Thunderheads]

maybe I'm looking for a booster/extender?  like this ?

 

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Wi-Fi+Booster+for+Mobile+Range+Extender/5970343.p?id=1218709599460&skuId=5970343&st=wifi range extender&cp=1&lp=4

[bam]

Not all extenders work well.

 

I've had some success with this one:

 

http://www.bing.com/shopping/netgear-wn2000rpt-universal-wifi-range-extender-wireless-network/p/4B363741E1FDCAE20001?q=wi-fi+extender&lpq=wi-fi%20extender&FORM=HURE

[johnnyg08]

There are many cheap options that you will not like.

To get what you want will cost you around $200.

[Thunderheads]

There are many cheap options that you will not like.

To get what you want will cost you around $200.

unfortunately, I had a funny feeling that might be the case

[Umpire in Chief]

Talk with your Internet service provider they may have some options for you. and if the pull any crap about not being able to help just let them know their competitor had a solution, but you really wanted to stay with them and not go through the hassle of changing.  

 

Around here we only have 2 options the phone company (Centurylink -- they suck) and the cable company (Mediacom - they suck too). But they do fight tooth and nail for each and every customer with each other and you can use that against them.

[Typhoon]

Type this into Google:

 

"home network with powerline"

 

We have had good success with these type of products

 

Tony

[JaxRolo]

I'm the IT Specialist at work and we use this with no problems at all!! 

 

http://bit.ly/1bp7gKs

[MadMax]

Any combination modem/router supplied by the ISP is going to be subpar and pathetic. In nearly every estimate or plan I've submitted to a client, the first thing I advise to do is have the ISP (re)supply a modem _only_, or put the modem/router into Bridge Mode. Once this is done, you are then free to obtain any Wireless Router of your choosing. Being Apple -trained, I am a big proponent of AirPort -model routers for consumers and _small_ business (certain types), and then for businesses and organizations, something in a Cisco (or similar, like Belkin or Netgear or D-link) router.

When it comes to wireless projection, keep in mind three things:

1) your range is affected by cinder-block or brick walls, EMI-emitting objects (dryers, microwaves, etc), tile floors, in-floor heating (an array of water flowing in tubes acts like a sponge), and walls that have several higher-voltage lines in them.

2) 802.11 is the IEEE specification that standardizes the function and frequency and performance of devices of this nature. The letters that follow "802.11" mean something – (a) = 54Mbps / ~ 50 ft.rad., (b) = 11Mbps / ~ 120 ft.rad., (g) = 54Mbps / ~ 150 ft.rad., (n) = 150Mbps / ~ 200 ft.rad., (ac) = 500Mbps / ? (This spec is proposed). "a" and "n" are both 5.0GHz, while "b" and "g" are 2.4GHz ... Meaning that there are _alot_ more devices (cordless phones, baby monitors, etc) on 2.4, thus, more chance of interference. Also, most consumer microwave ovens "hum" at 2.4GHz... Strange, huh? "a" uses the less-crowded 5.0GHz band, but the range is hamstrung by the low power that the devices typically use. _Thus_ you will see alot of handheld devices saying they can do a/b/g, and alot of routers (or WAPs) say they can do a/b/g/n.

3) The acronyms WEP, WPA, WPA-II, WPA-PSK, et.al. stand for different types of security/encryption protocol. This _only_ encrypts the signal, not the actual stuff moving through it. WEP is totally obsolete (and easily hackable), but because it's cheap and says "secure" it is still in use. DO NOT USE IT. Use WPA or WPA-II whenever possible, but also keep in mind... There's no reason to go nuts with this.

When you do set up a wireless environment, try to position the router / WAP (wireless access point) as centrally as possible. Most routers do not emit a true sphere – it's more of a ovular toroid shape (think donut). You can certainly consider extenders and boosters, and the one you pointed out would be a decent one to consider. I think your priority, though, should be the first thing I advised, unless it's impossible (AT&T's UVerse is notorious for this... They use a 2WIRE -brand unit that cannot be put into bridge mode, and if it is, you lose the TV connectivity).

[KLAH316]

Any combination modem/router supplied by the ISP is going to be subpar and pathetic. In nearly every estimate or plan I've submitted to a client, the first thing I advise to do is have the ISP (re)supply a modem _only_, or put the modem/router into Bridge Mode. Once this is done, you are then free to obtain any Wireless Router of your choosing. Being Apple -trained, I am a big proponent of AirPort -model routers for consumers and _small_ business (certain types), and then for businesses and organizations, something in a Cisco (or similar, like Belkin or Netgear or D-link) router.

When it comes to wireless projection, keep in mind three things:

1) your range is affected by cinder-block or brick walls, EMI-emitting objects (dryers, microwaves, etc), tile floors, in-floor heating (an array of water flowing in tubes acts like a sponge), and walls that have several higher-voltage lines in them.

2) 802.11 is the IEEE specification that standardizes the function and frequency and performance of devices of this nature. The letters that follow "802.11" mean something – (a) = 54Mbps / ~ 50 ft.rad., (b) = 11Mbps / ~ 120 ft.rad., (g) = 54Mbps / ~ 150 ft.rad., (n) = 150Mbps / ~ 200 ft.rad., (ac) = 500Mbps / ? (This spec is proposed). "a" and "n" are both 5.0GHz, while "b" and "g" are 2.4GHz ... Meaning that there are _alot_ more devices (cordless phones, baby monitors, etc) on 2.4, thus, more chance of interference. Also, most consumer microwave ovens "hum" at 2.4GHz... Strange, huh? "a" uses the less-crowded 5.0GHz band, but the range is hamstrung by the low power that the devices typically use. _Thus_ you will see alot of handheld devices saying they can do a/b/g, and alot of routers (or WAPs) say they can do a/b/g/n.

3) The acronyms WEP, WPA, WPA-II, WPA-PSK, et.al. stand for different types of security/encryption protocol. This _only_ encrypts the signal, not the actual stuff moving through it. WEP is totally obsolete (and easily hackable), but because it's cheap and says "secure" it is still in use. DO NOT USE IT. Use WPA or WPA-II whenever possible, but also keep in mind... There's no reason to go nuts with this.

When you do set up a wireless environment, try to position the router / WAP (wireless access point) as centrally as possible. Most routers do not emit a true sphere – it's more of a ovular toroid shape (think donut). You can certainly consider extenders and boosters, and the one you pointed out would be a decent one to consider. I think your priority, though, should be the first thing I advised, unless it's impossible (AT&T's UVerse is notorious for this... They use a 2WIRE -brand unit that cannot be put into bridge mode, and if it is, you lose the TV connectivity).

You beat me to it..... Exactly what I was going to say! 

[SJA]

I've been using this one for over a year with no issues. It is in my shop approx. 125 feet from the house.

BELKIN E2S4000 Dual Band Wireless Range Extender

:-)

[Umpiresoftball]

You might just be better buying your own wifi than using the one they gave you. I had many issue with lynksys but i am using belkin for my router. its not perfect but its better decent than what i was dealing with.

 

its shut off on me a couple times but i just did move it around and unplug it so i think that has something more to do with it. Btw... you could go by what others advise. good luck

[Welpe]

Any combination modem/router supplied by the ISP is going to be subpar and pathetic. In nearly every estimate or plan I've submitted to a client, the first thing I advise to do is have the ISP (re)supply a modem _only_, or put the modem/router into Bridge Mode. Once this is done, you are then free to obtain any Wireless Router of your choosing. Being Apple -trained, I am a big proponent of AirPort -model routers for consumers and _small_ business (certain types), and then for businesses and organizations, something in a Cisco (or similar, like Belkin or Netgear or D-link) router.

When it comes to wireless projection, keep in mind three things:

1) your range is affected by cinder-block or brick walls, EMI-emitting objects (dryers, microwaves, etc), tile floors, in-floor heating (an array of water flowing in tubes acts like a sponge), and walls that have several higher-voltage lines in them.

2) 802.11 is the IEEE specification that standardizes the function and frequency and performance of devices of this nature. The letters that follow "802.11" mean something – (a) = 54Mbps / ~ 50 ft.rad., (b) = 11Mbps / ~ 120 ft.rad., (g) = 54Mbps / ~ 150 ft.rad., (n) = 150Mbps / ~ 200 ft.rad., (ac) = 500Mbps / ? (This spec is proposed). "a" and "n" are both 5.0GHz, while "b" and "g" are 2.4GHz ... Meaning that there are _alot_ more devices (cordless phones, baby monitors, etc) on 2.4, thus, more chance of interference. Also, most consumer microwave ovens "hum" at 2.4GHz... Strange, huh? "a" uses the less-crowded 5.0GHz band, but the range is hamstrung by the low power that the devices typically use. _Thus_ you will see alot of handheld devices saying they can do a/b/g, and alot of routers (or WAPs) say they can do a/b/g/n.

3) The acronyms WEP, WPA, WPA-II, WPA-PSK, et.al. stand for different types of security/encryption protocol. This _only_ encrypts the signal, not the actual stuff moving through it. WEP is totally obsolete (and easily hackable), but because it's cheap and says "secure" it is still in use. DO NOT USE IT. Use WPA or WPA-II whenever possible, but also keep in mind... There's no reason to go nuts with this.

When you do set up a wireless environment, try to position the router / WAP (wireless access point) as centrally as possible. Most routers do not emit a true sphere – it's more of a ovular toroid shape (think donut). You can certainly consider extenders and boosters, and the one you pointed out would be a decent one to consider. I think your priority, though, should be the first thing I advised, unless it's impossible (AT&T's UVerse is notorious for this... They use a 2WIRE -brand unit that cannot be put into bridge mode, and if it is, you lose the TV connectivity).

 

 

Great advice. I was going to suggest bridge mode as well.

[Thunderheads]

Netgear 2500 wifi signal extender ............... done, works great! $79

 

Thanks for the info guys! Much appreciated!

[mstaylor]

I need to extend a Comcast signal about 100ft. Is it better to hardwire a cable hookup and then get a new modem or try to extend it? New territory for me. 

[JaxRolo]

I need to extend a Comcast signal about 100ft. Is it better to hardwire a cable hookup and then get a new modem or try to extend it? New territory for me. 

 

A cable hook up will always be faster than a Wi-Fi signal.

[Thunderheads]

I need to extend a Comcast signal about 100ft. Is it better to hardwire a cable hookup and then get a new modem or try to extend it? New territory for me. 

Michael,

Is your modem from Comcast, and is it the dual purpose, hardline and wifi combined?  If it is, it's the Docsis 3.0 and is there most up to date ....

 

I used the Netgear 2500 wifi signal extender ,....works great, very easy

[JaxRolo]

I repeat: Hardwire is always faster than and better than wi-Fi

[mstaylor]

Let me clarify my question. We are currently building an indoor training facility. I want to take the current cable WiFi signal from the house to outbuilding. If I can extend it wirelessly I can do it cheaper and I wouldn't have bury cable. The distance from the house to classroom is about 100ft. I would like to plug the extender in the classroom and pull the signal in. If I have to bury cable, then install a private cable modem then that's fine. What I was really trying to avoid was getting Comcast in to move a cable over and pay for a second modem. I have become the organization IT guy, nobody else seems to have much knowledge. 

[JaxRolo]

Let me clarify my question. We are currently building an indoor training facility. I want to take the current cable WiFi signal from the house to outbuilding. If I can extend it wirelessly I can do it cheaper and I wouldn't have bury cable. The distance from the house to classroom is about 100ft. I would like to plug the extender in the classroom and pull the signal in. If I have to bury cable, then install a private cable modem then that's fine. What I was really trying to avoid was getting Comcast in to move a cable over and pay for a second modem. I have become the organization IT guy, nobody else seems to have much knowledge.

Do you have any signal from the house to that location at all? The extender would require that you have at least a little bit of a signal.

[mstaylor]

Good question to which I don't know. One more dumb question. If not could I extend to the end of the house and then extend again if I get any signal at all?

[JaxRolo]

Good question to which I don't know. One more dumb question. If not could I extend to the end of the house and then extend again if I get any signal at all?

Yes

 

But I think you could run 100-150 feet of cat 5 and just put a router there. maybe run 2 cables. One for spare in case you have any trouble.