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Posted

I'm contemplating pulling the trigger and buying this manual. My question is this...and it may on the surface appear to be a dumb one, but, I want to know if this manual/book is geared toward the profession baseball application of the 2-man crew. In other words, how much different is this instruction manual (other than the depth of detail) from, say, the NFHS system which is what is preached and taught in my neck of the woods. I am most likely going to purchase this book just because I love learning anything and everything about rules and umpire mechanics. I just want to know if I'm going to be in synch with any future partners if I begin to apply it's content or is it something that is completely different that what I've been taught to date. Make any sense???

Any help from the seasoned veterans and former (or current) pro guys is greatly appreciated. Thanks,

Jeff

Posted

Jeff, the true value of "Maximizing" is the excellent analysis and explanation of general umpiring principals which are applicable to all levels.

True, the book has more than 150 pages specifically dedicated to two-man pro mechanics but this has real value to a HS umpire as well. There is no way I can learn all the positions,rotations, priorities and secondary and tertiary responsibilities for both umpires and for all runner combinations in just a few months. However, these pages serve as an excellent reference AFTER I run in to the situation on the field. They provide clear instructions AND back it up with the positioning theory required to understand WHY. This is like having a post-game hotline to Evans or Nelson himself.

For example, when I first had issues with getting angles and seeing double plays, I referred to the section below which reminded me that my footwork had to change. It thoroughly analyzes the reasons for the recommended footwork. Not only do I execute better, I can explain it if asked.

As far as differences go, the most commonly-encountered difference was actually reconciled in 2010. NFHS changed the responsibilities on a trouble ball hit to RF and BR advances to 3rd. Now, just like "Maximizing", NFHS recommends that BU return from RF to take a possible play at the plate. (I am assuming it was a change, because most I spoke to in my association did it differently. (go out/stay out) ) When my first partner pre-gamed the new responsibilities with me, I told him "No problem. That is how I learned it ." (I learned it from Semper, who first turned me on to this title.)

Check out the excellent section on double plays:

(I re-type the sections in order to visualize the instructions)

9.06 The Double Play

One of the main reasons the base umpire is positioned on the first base side of the infield with runners on first and third is to provide a better starting position for him to umpire the second-to-first double play. On ground balls to the infield with a runner on first, the base umpire will step up, turn, and face the ball (Ch. 1, G-38 Step up, Turn, and Face the Ball) while staying in the working area. The initial step forward is made with the foot which is on the same side the ball passed him. If the ball was hit to the third baseman or shortstop, he would step forward with his right foot. If it were hit to the first or second baseman, he would step forward with his left foot. When hit directly at him, he must pivot out of the way of the ball and immediately square his chest to the ball then drop step square to second base. When fielded by the pitcher, it is critical to clear the throwing lane to second and then square the chest to the play at second. He must observe the infielder field the ball, face the infielder, and then square himself to second base by drop stepping. If the ball was hit to his right, the drop step would be with his right foot. If the ball was hit to his left, the drop step would be with his left foot. After observing the play at second from a standing set position, he will drop step his right foot toward the forty-five foot line or a midpoint between the forty-five foot line and first base. The umpire should see the play at second from a standing set position and make his mental decision from that position (the call). In tre two-umpire system, however, it is necessary for him to gain some distance and improve his angle for the play at first. The drop step helps him accomplish that. The actual mechanic (the signal) for the play at second is given as he is gaining distance toward the foul line. Depending on the speed at which the play develops, the base umpire may only be able to get a step or two before he must square to the play at first and assume a set position. (Diagram 9 .7)

Comments

This footwork is extremely important in helping the umpire build the proper angles for his plays and will prevent him from chasing the ball and ,destroying those angles. In umpiring, angles are always primary to distance; but to be credible, the Umpire must achieve a practical distance or he subjects himself to unfair criticism.

It is critical that the base umpire keeps his attention focused on the play at second long enough to observe· (1) The transfer of the ball from the fielder's glove to his throwing hand and (2) the release of the ball. There are many potential problems that can occur on this play including a missed base, a dropped ball, a juggled ball, and runner interference.

If a problem occurs at second with no legal tag made and a throw to first follows, the umpire should simply signal and verbalize "safe" when the play occurs initially and then go back and reinforce the call at second with strong voice and explanatory mechanic after the play at first has been completed.

On reverse double plays where the batter-runner is retired first, it is highly recommended that the base umpire develop the habit of signaling the front end of that play loudly and clearly, regardless of how close the play is, so that everyone is aware that the force has been removed. It is also advisable to render a strong, clear signal when the batter-runner is safe in order to mitigate an argument based on the assumption that the batter-runner was out.

Mechanics and game management are my points of emphasis for this upcoming year.

Hope this helps!

Posted

Thanks for the comments, sdix00! I think this is going to be an invaluable resource for me.

Posted

Thanks for the comments, sdix00! I think this is going to be an invaluable resource for me.

Jeff, I"m looking at this for the off-season as well, ....I don't think I've heard anyone say a bad thing about it! :cheers:

Posted

One thing to remember

It is basically the textbook from JE 5 week course.

How can you go wrong

Everyone should have a copy if they want to umpire

Posted

Well, I pulled the trigger. I'm looking forward to receiving it.

Posted

Well, I pulled the trigger. I'm looking forward to receiving it.

Great! When you get it make me a copy!

Posted

IMO this book is well worth the price if you are serious about learning the priciples of umpiring mechancs. .

Posted

Well, it came and I can't seem to put this d*mn book down. Probably the best non-fiction I've read in a while... Actually, I'm getting a lot out of it only 2 chapters into it. I'm so glad I bought it!!!

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Thanks for the comments, sdix00! I think this is going to be an invaluable resource for me.

Jeff, I"m looking at this for the off-season as well, ....I don't think I've heard anyone say a bad thing about it! :cheers:

Well we haven't discussed it yet.

Uhhhh ... the information is of tremendous value and I swear by most of its teachings and guidelines.

But considering it's an unedited, cheaply printed amateur publication, its $70.00 price tag is an insult.

Maybe after they get stuck with however many thousand they printed, they'll lower the price.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Just bought this manual and I am excited to get it. I just finished reading the WUM for the first time, but since I one of my points of emphasis over the next year is working on my mechanics, Maximizing should be an invaluable resource. Nice discount for ABUA members as well. I also bought the Force 3 sport socks which should be a nice addition to the UA heatgear tights that should be arriving today.

Kevin, I appreciate that you have prepared me to expect that Maximizing will be rough around the edges from an editing/publishing standpoint. The WUM was much the same which was disappointing to me, even though the content was why I purchased it. The content did not disappoint, and I am sure that will be the case with Maximizing as well.

Posted

Thank you, 'Hawk. I'm glad to know that you're among those of us who care about upholding the traditional standard for the written word.

... And that is the case with Evans's version. The content is truly superb. I don't know if Harry's book details how you line up your belt buckle, but Evans is that thorough. You walk away from it feeling like you've been through a complete course---just not a course on art or English.

Posted

Thank you, 'Hawk. I'm glad to know that you're among those of us who care about upholding the traditional standard for the written word.

... And that is the case with Evans's version. The content is truly superb. I don't know if Harry's book details how you line up your belt buckle, but Evans is that thorough. You walk away from it feeling like you've been through a complete course---just not a course on art or English.

I'm finding that out, Kevin. It's not the most well-written manual I've ever read. But, I have to say that the content is worth it's weight in gold. Having said that, I find that the purchase price of $70 is worth it from a content and learning tool perspective. If I had to give it a 1 to 10 ranking on editing, I'd have to say probably a 5 or a 6. However, I'm bright enough (at least in my own mind's eye) to navigate throught the "fog" I sometimes find in the manual. So, I'm getting an awful lot out of it. That, in my opinion, is the ultimate determinant of value.

Posted

Thank you, 'Hawk. I'm glad to know that you're among those of us who care about upholding the traditional standard for the written word.

... And that is the case with Evans's version. The content is truly superb. I don't know if Harry's book details how you line up your belt buckle, but Evans is that thorough. You walk away from it feeling like you've been through a complete course---just not a course on art or English.

Harry's book is a rules interpretation manual, so there is nothing about mechanics except for the occasional tip in "Harry's Hints." What I liked about it was the extensive case plays, Harry's Hints and Historical References. It needs a much better editor/proofreader, preferably someone with knowledge of umpiring. There are case plays with incorrect conclusions (as I posted in another thread), mixing up runners and where they should tag/return and other errors. However, I'm very glad to have it as a resource,and it will be something that I refer back to in the future.

Posted

The "Maximizing" book is the most valuable umpiring book I own. If you hang up on the publishing quality then you're going to miss the gold mine of information.

+1

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I just ordered my copy I can't wait to get it. I only wish it were closer to spring so that I could put it right to action.

Posted

Great book, worth the one game fee investment. Others will disagree, (some whose opinions I respect very much) but if you're serious about becoming a better umpire, you'll make the investment.

Posted

Does this book go along the same lines as the CCA manual regarding two-man mechanics? It sounds worthwhile but if they conflict it wouldn't be worth the price.

Posted

The "Maximizing" book is the most valuable umpiring book I own. If you hang up on the publishing quality then you're going to miss the gold mine of information.

The publishing quality and the information contained in the book are two different things. I didn't miss anything.

There's simply no excuse other than short-sighted greed for charging full pop for an amateur publication.

Half an effort for half the price would be fair. But $70 for half the effort is an insult. Evans could learn something from Carl Childress. Now that guy is an honorable and honest man, who charges a fair price for his material.

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