How would you fix this?

[BLWizzRanger]

The D-ring is ripping the loop. I know its on the upper knee piece but I still want it.

 

How would you replace the loop or make sure the loop doesnt rip all the way?

 

All Star LP11-R are the model if you need to know.

 

TIA!

 

Sent from my SM-F721U1 using Tapatalk

 

 

[The Short Umpire]

Drill out the rivet and put a new piece of webbing in with a Chicago screw. 

[MadMax]

On 4/14/2024 at 12:01 PM, The Short Umpire said:

Drill out the rivet and put a new piece of webbing in with a Chicago screw. 

Exactly like this 👆🏼. Shorty’s got the sagest advice. 

It’ll look something like this: 

In each case, unless you have a leather hole punch (looks like an industrial paper hole punch), I recommend the heated-awl-lance method. DO NOT DRILL a hole thru the (new) nylon webbing – you’ll ruin the nylon, you’ll get your drill bit all fouled up, and you risk hurting yourself. Instead, I use a butane (or propane) torch to superheat a cheap scratch awl ($2 at Harbor Freight) and then lance thru the nylon webbing. Makes a good size hole and cauterizes it in one shot. 

Then, Chicago Screws are your bestest fastening friend. You probably need no longer than 1/4”… or maybe 3/8”, tops. 

[The Short Umpire]

15 minutes ago, MadMax said:

Exactly like this 👆🏼. Shorty’s got the sagest advice. 

It’ll look something like this: 

In each case, unless you have a leather hole punch (looks like an industrial paper hole punch), I recommend the heated-awl-lance method. DO NOT DRILL a hole thru the (new) nylon webbing – you’ll ruin the nylon, you’ll get your drill bit all fouled up, and you risk hurting yourself. Instead, I use a butane (or propane) torch to superheat a cheap scratch awl ($2 at Harbor Freight) and then lance thru the nylon webbing. Makes a good size hole and cauterizes it in one shot. 

Then, Chicago Screws are your bestest fastening friend. You probably need no longer than 1/4”… or maybe 3/8”, tops. 

This is the way.

[BLWizzRanger]

See? I knew a simple question would bring about good advise and pictures!

Thanks to Short and MadMax.

Unless I missed it, are you filing down the edges on front and back to make sure there are no shirt-snagging burrs? On one of the slots, it looks like the screwdriver marred the edges and possibly making an shirt-snagging edge.

[MadMax]

1 hour ago, BLWizzRanger said:

On one of the slots, it looks like the screwdriver marred the edges and possibly making a shirt-snagging edge.

*/ gets very self-conscious /* What? Where? I left a marred, burr-y edge?? 

… I haven’t had a snagged shirt yet. 

I use aluminum Chicago Screws. Don’t corrode, and softer. Sandpaper will smooth ‘em instead of a file. 

[BLWizzRanger]

That looked rough.... not criticizing your craftsmanship.  but as someone who has marred aluminimumum slots with a steel screwdriver before, I was just wondering if you saw that issue.

I realized afterwards, I was asking about my shin guards in the OP but with all of the chest protector pictures, I shifted to shirts snagging.  At least this will benefit anyone coming across this with similar issues.

 

[MadMax]

On 4/14/2024 at 10:44 AM, BLWizzRanger said:

The D-ring is ripping the loop. I know its on the upper knee piece but I still want it.

All Star LP11-R are the model if you need to know.

Hey! While we’re at it, why not exchange D-ring & metal hooks… for side release buckles? 

Just a thought… 🤔