Jump to content

Update on Douglas chest protector pricing


Recommended Posts

Greetings brothers,

     Well, I have found the Douglas chest protector to be so nice...I ordered it twice. My DIY plate coat came back from the tailor today (thank you again to @MadMax for the tips!) and when I tried it on with the CP for final fitting, I realized that all of the commie pinko stickers I put on the outside of my Douglas CP which are normally hidden under a uniform shirt or jacket are now visible when wearing a plate coat. So, we can't have that now can we? The only way to "solve" that "problem" would be to order a brand new chest protector...right? 😎

     Mrs. Dawg: Hon, what's this $385 charge to Douglas Pads?

     Me (demurring...): Oh that...yeah, yeah...that's a new chest protector.

     Mrs. Dawg (confused...): Don't you have a chest protector?

     Me (fumbling...): So, my plate coat came in and there's these commie pinko stickers and...wow! Would you look at the gutters...lemme get right on those...

     Mrs. Dawg: Uh huh...

     So, our good friend Jeff Cook at Douglas is building me a 15" CP with gap protection and this time I optioned for T-hooks instead of their standard side release buckles. The first one I bought 2 years ago has side buckles and I have come to understand that the T-Hooks mod while more expensive is the optimum setup. The gap protection is a non-negotiable unless you were only wearing this to work 12U down...maybe. So FYI, here then is their current pricing:

15" base CP $289.99

Gap protection $30

T-hooks $25

Shipping $24

Tax $16.60

TOTAL $385.60 (not the cheapest CP ever made, just the best choice for me...)

     SHAMELESS PLUG: If you'd like all the fine folks at Douglas to build you your new CP, please contact Jeff "Cookie" Cook directly at jeffcook@douglaspads.com or 713-697-9787.

~Dawg

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, SeeingEyeDog said:

The first one I bought 2 years ago has side buckles and I have come to understand that the T-Hooks mod while more expensive is the optimum setup.

If I might interject… 

I have discovered, and since implemented, the best CP fastener, hands down. Unlike T-hooks, which are steel, these are aluminum, so they don’t corrode. There are no sharp edges, and nothing protruding upon which your ( 🤬 stupidly more expensive) umpire shirt (or plate coat!) won’t snag or get a hole gouged thru it when hit by a marauding ball. They’re not plastic, either, unlike the breakable side-release buckle. They utilize the same rigging (webbing loop) as the side release buckle, and I dare say, I would break any stock-standard side release buckle off, and replace it with this right from the get-go. 
Annnnnnd, they’re a heckuva lot cheaper than SR buckles and T-hooks! 
 

It’s a G-hook. 

(Ugh! I gotta compress all these photos I have! I’ll include them later.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/18/2024 at 9:42 PM, SeeingEyeDog said:

Thanks once again, @MadMax...this is what Google says is a G-Hook. Is this the right thing?

Well yeah, but not quite. I used contoured, aluminum G-hooks that I found on Amazon (see link below). You want to use the metric equivalent of 1.5". 

I had been using T-hooks on my original Schutt MaXV, until I finally exchanged the main chest plate (and corresponding lower rib plate) from a brand-new (Adams) XV that @The Short Umpire supplied me (he kept the shoulders and TPU-EVA foam jacket). This new XV used SR buckles, but placed further back on the trailing edge of the flank (by the kidneys?). Ya just can't get them tight enough, and they're a PITA to contort and buckle. All-Star had the right idea on placing them much more up front, but of course, they're more prone to being impacted and breaking (as you all have been pointing out). Well, I had to try it, so I modified my MaXV and mounted two loops of 1.5" seatbelt webbing to hold the female (block) part of the SR buckle. I was doing alright with them, and had achieved the fit I wanted... but I did break two of these buckles on impacts. Ya just didn't see me post about it. 😁 Sure, I had to replace buckles, but at least I didn't bruise or cut shirts because of the T-hooks. 

So when these G-hooks started to show up on Amazon in variety, I took a leap... 

maxvghookmod_s01.jpg.35814bf2ad795e2d448b870bd4dd821d.jpg

maxvghookmod_s02.jpg.9f183606e4cc094b8a02551706cf8508.jpgmaxvghookmod_s03.jpg.d050a3d14c39718a87214296b0b969f5.jpgmaxvghookmod_s04.jpg.e2ddd84cb61f5f5a2e94d4dc68bc544c.jpgmaxvghookmod_s05.jpg.d7879dcf29cabff5a05730dc62d55994.jpgmaxvghookmod_s06.jpg.a26c11c96da9cdfea956b1079460ed13.jpg

Removed the old SR buckle. Chicago Screws are the key, here. 

maxvghookmod_s07.jpg.893b01d9582ad86f47f93acdd389531b.jpgmaxvghookmod_s08.jpg.e87bed8ef328171202a7fc0b56eaf149.jpg

Now, if you have an existing SR buckle, then just kill it (break the plastic), and leave the webbing loop. In my case, I just had to reinsert and refasten the Chicago Screw. 

maxvghookmod_s09.jpg.e062019c5e30385c8cb8a2d5297cc6f2.jpgmaxvghookmod_s10.jpg.6f34e509e753c73653c8d34b37650e38.jpgmaxvghookmod_s11.jpg.d1047611d7a0e2aed6c4a641036f8ef0.jpg

This is the little magic gem. Aluminum – DOES NOT corrode, DOES NOT bend or break (unless extreme circumstances), DOES NOT cut or hole your very expensive shirts. 

maxvghookmod_s12.jpg.e28548568fca7f8ee343d94dfb37a7cd.jpg

Re-rig it as you did the male (fork) part of the SR buckle. I placed it in the exact same spot that it was on the webbing strap. In my case, I have a lot of surplus strap, because I often loan my CP out, or pass my harnesses off to other umpires. As such, I use a prodigious amount of tri-glide ladderlocs to secure the excess straps. Tape gets messy. However, I've found that the contour of the G-hook not only results in a low profile, but it bites the strap more securely. 

maxvghookmod_s13.jpg.878cf589f0a33c7e59de648018c99c58.jpgmaxvghookmod_s14.jpg.369a71a52c523ff6e11de5888166a20d.jpg

See? It just hooks perfectly. Check out the profile... 

maxvghookmod_s15.jpg.7bbdef0e2c8c945d7bed7b8dd80dba0f.jpgmaxvghookmod_s16.jpg.b05b66765597d1d5ee3b6a7e1eacade8.jpg

The finished product:

maxvghookmod_s17.jpg.718e218372e881ed12a26a3cd8d684b2.jpg

I'm on the verge of buying 1" and 3/4" G-hooks, and redoing all the used shinguards I have (for sale... I only use Force3 Ultimates myself), that's how much I endorse these guys, and how much I despise those rusty, squeaky steel ring-and-clips that always come apart on ya. 

@The Man in Blue, I think this is the way you could/should go to replace that damaged SR buckle on your shinguards. 

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, MadMax said:

 

@The Man in Blue, I think this is the way you could/should go to replace that damaged SR buckle on your shinguards. 

 

If I had to do it myself, I LOVE this G-hook!  I am not a fan of "moving pieces" in safety equipment.  As a catcher, I always hated the hook and D-rings.  (FWIW, F3 responded fairly quickly and said there was an error or a glitch when my return was processed.  They shipped them out the next day.  I have the new box sitting here unopened since I had hung up my gear for the season by that time.)

I really need to get with you, @MadMax, on modifying my Schutt.  I've reverted back to it and I think that is where I will likely stay.  I like my Cobalt but I don't love it (not sure why -- the fit is great, it handles the heat fairly well ... I guess it just still feels a bit thick).  I pawned off my F3 after just a few uses.  The original DaviShield donated its body to science . . . I need to dial this Schutt in.  

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, MadMax said:

I'm on the verge of buying 1" and 3/4" G-hooks, and redoing all the used shinguards I have (for sale... I only use Force3 Ultimates myself), that's how much I endorse these guys, and how much I despise those rusty, squeaky steel ring-and-clips that always come apart on ya.

I don't mind my stock Cobalt buckles, but I think I'm going to go the G-Hook route...

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know if Douglas has an established MSRP honestly. We sell it for $230 but we only do that because we don't stock it. To me, $290 would make reasonable sense knowing the wholesale pricing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...