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Back Up Mask


UmpSC7

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If you favor the Nike Titanium (Icon) for its planform, then the way to go for a backup mask is:

  • Nike Steel Icon
  • Nike/Adidas/Reebok Titanal Icon
  • +POS ZRO-G mask

Each of these is using the same planform as the vaunted Nike Titanium (very iconic, hence the Icon nickname). The +POS is close, since it’s been speculated that the founder of +POS participated in the development of the original planform that became the Nike Icon (in Titanium first).

An Icon in hollow steel will fetch around $100. Icons have been recently produced by the shop in Taiwan, but been branded as Adidas or Reeboks. These are composed of a new high-performance aluminum alloy called Titanal (tī•tín•ahl), which allows for better elasticity in the welds than straight aluminum, but lighter composition than straight steel, on par with Titanium... at about half the cost ($100-$200).

What works against us, of course, is that the Icon isn’t sold to us in the baseball market; it’s supplied. Which means, there is a widely variable range in availability and price.

Now, that +POS is an ideal mask for the budget-conscious. It’s a very tough, light hollow steel, in almost the same planform as the Icon, but is priced at a very appealing $49. 3 of my 5 masks are +POS ZRO-G’s. I outfit them with TW pads, but you can use any other pads in them you wish. As I do over 200 plate games per year, they get punished; if they happen to bend, I just pound the bend back out. If they bend or break beyond repair, I just get another one, no real loss.

The Wilson DynaLite is a similar planform to the Icon, but of course, there are minor trademark differences. The DynaLite now exists in three materials – hollow steel (vinyl dipped), aluminum, and titanium. We’re looking at around $70 for the first, $110–$130 for the second, and upwards to $200 for the third.

The last mask that might appeal to you is one of the new Magnesium masks. The benefits of magnesium masks are centered around lightweight-ness that rivals or bests titanium without needing welds, or ever bending or breaking. The first of these die-cast (thus, weldless) magnesium masks is the All-Star FM4000Mag. It has a radically different geometry (planform) than the iconic styles, and has quickly become a very popular mask in the Big Leagues. However, it does carry a premium price tag. There is another option, the Rampage from Champro, which has a Japanese-inspired planform, cast in magnesium, and available at $125–$130.

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8 hours ago, UmpSC7 said:

Thank you. Very in depth descriptions and recommendations. I will keep my eye out for the mask you listed.

 

there are also HUNDREDS upon HUNDREDS of threads within the 'equipment' forum that you can search and read till your hearts content! :D :HD:

P.S.  I mean this in a sincere/helpful way!  Trust me, you'll be reading ALL DAY!  It's info overload here as you can tell by @MadMax 's response!! LOL :rollinglaugh:

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16 hours ago, MadMax said:

If you favor the Nike Titanium (Icon) for its planform, then the way to go for a backup mask is:

  • Nike Steel Icon
  • Nike/Adidas/Reebok Titanal Icon
  • +POS ZRO-G mask

Each of these is using the same planform as the vaunted Nike Titanium (very iconic, hence the Icon nickname). The +POS is close, since it’s been speculated that the founder of +POS participated in the development of the original planform that became the Nike Icon (in Titanium first).

An Icon in hollow steel will fetch around $100. Icons have been recently produced by the shop in Taiwan, but been branded as Adidas or Reeboks. These are composed of a new aluminum-steel alloy called Titanal (tī•tín•ahl), which allows for better elasticity in the welds than straight aluminum, but lighter composition than straight steel, on par with Titanium... at about half the cost ($100-$200).

What works against us, of course, is that the Icon isn’t sold to us in the baseball market; it’s supplied. Which means, there is a widely variable range in availability and price.

Now, that +POS is an ideal mask for the budget-conscious. It’s a very tough, light hollow steel, in almost the same planform as the Icon, but is priced at a very appealing $49. 3 of my 5 masks are +POS ZRO-G’s. I outfit them with TW pads, but you can use any other pads in them you wish. As I do over 200 plate games per year, they get punished; if they happen to bend, I just pound the bend back out. If they bend or break beyond repair, I just get another one, no real loss.

The Wilson DynaLite is a similar planform to the Icon, but of course, there are minor trademark differences. The DynaLite now exists in three materials – hollow steel (vinyl dipped), aluminum, and titanium. We’re looking at around $70 for the first, $110–$130 for the second, and upwards to $200 for the third.

The last mask that might appeal to you is one of the new Magnesium masks. The benefits of magnesium masks are centered around lightweight-ness that rivals or bests titanium without needing welds, or ever bending or breaking. The first of these die-cast (thus, weldless) magnesium masks is the All-Star FM4000Mag. It has a radically different geometry (planform) than the iconic styles, and has quickly become a very popular mask in the Big Leagues. However, it does carry a premium price tag. There is another option, the Rampage from Champro, which has a Japanese-inspired planform, cast in magnesium, and available at $125–$130.

MadMax is spot on. I own a Nike Ti and a Plus Pos zero gravity.  Look, feel, weight, and vision are very similar with both. I have neck issues and can't wear a lot of weight in a mask. These two are perfect for me. 

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@MadMax, is there a weight difference between the TitaniAL and TitaniUM planform masks?

On 8/2/2018 at 8:45 PM, UmpSC7 said:

Thank you. Very in depth descriptions and recommendations. I will keep my eye out for the mask you listed.

 

Get used to them. Especially in regards to equipment. :notworthy:

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@BT_Blue, between Titanium and Titanal, I was not able to actually put them on a scale, or put them both in my hands at the same time. That being said, they didn't feel much different at all, and there are only the most minor of details that distinguish one from the other.

We can always distinguish hollow steel from titanium because of the blunt ends of the solid titanium wire versus the clipped-&-crimped (or plugged) ends of the hollow steel tubing. As is consistent with aluminum, the Titanal's bars are solid bars too. However, the "original" Titanium had a planform utilizing 2 different gauges of wire (thickness) and an elongated chin guard with no forward rake. Over time, that morphed to include 3 gauges of titanium wire and a very slight forward rake was introduced. When the Taiwanese shop that "owns" the planform opened up production to satisfy other companies – such as Adidas, Reebok and Mizuno – the quality controls on the welds started to wane. About this time (likely recommended by Adidas, who has access to titanal's Austrian "inventing" company of AMAG), the mask started to appear in Titanal.

The Titanal version, like its Titanium sibling, is generally anti-corrosive. Being aluminum-based, it's easier to paint than titanium. And, the welds are not as troublesome as titanium, which generally have to be done with a precision (machine-driven) welder.

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On 8/8/2018 at 6:41 PM, MadMax said:

@BT_Blue, between Titanium and Titanal, I was not able to actually put them on a scale, or put them both in my hands at the same time. That being said, they didn't feel much different at all, and there are only the most minor of details that distinguish one from the other.

We can always distinguish hollow steel from titanium because of the blunt ends of the solid titanium wire versus the clipped-&-crimped (or plugged) ends of the hollow steel tubing. As is consistent with aluminum, the Titanal's bars are solid bars too. However, the "original" Titanium had a planform utilizing 2 different gauges of wire (thickness) and an elongated chin guard with no forward rake. Over time, that morphed to include 3 gauges of titanium wire and a very slight forward rake was introduced. When the Taiwanese shop that "owns" the planform opened up production to satisfy other companies – such as Adidas, Reebok and Mizuno – the quality controls on the welds started to wane. About this time (likely recommended by Adidas, who has access to titanal's Austrian "inventing" company of AMAG), the mask started to appear in Titanal.

The Titanal version, like its Titanium sibling, is generally anti-corrosive. Being aluminum-based, it's easier to paint than titanium. And, the welds are not as troublesome as titanium, which generally have to be done with a precision (machine-driven) welder.

So... would it be safe to assume that any new Nike would either be of the hollow steel or the titanial fashion rather than straight Titanium?

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1 hour ago, BT_Blue said:

So... would it be safe to assume that any new Nike would either be of the hollow steel or the titanial fashion rather than straight Titanium?

Not necessarily. At this time, we (a few of us) have seen Icons in titanium with Nike branding, while Icons in titanal are in Adidas branding.

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On 8/10/2018 at 1:13 AM, MadMax said:

Not necessarily. At this time, we (a few of us) have seen Icons in titanium with Nike branding, while Icons in titanal are in Adidas branding.

So is there a way to look at them to tell if they are Titanium or Titanial? I know that the one Clubbie sold me a while back was Titanial. But I am wondering about the one I purchased recently with full Nike regalia. I wonder if there us any way to tell what I got?

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On 8/11/2018 at 9:54 PM, BT_Blue said:

So is there a way to look at them to tell if they are Titanium or Titanial? I know that the one Clubbie sold me a while back was Titanial. But I am wondering about the one I purchased recently with full Nike regalia. I wonder if there us any way to tell what I got?

I've had several Adidas and a magnet sticks to them.  This is the truest test of all titanium vs. titanal.  A magnet should not stick to titanium, while it will stick somewhat to titanal as it has metallic parts within.

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On 8/13/2018 at 4:34 AM, wolfe_man said:

I've had several Adidas and a magnet sticks to them.  This is the truest test of all titanium vs. titanal.  A magnet should not stick to titanium, while it will stick somewhat to titanal as it has metallic parts within.

That's a great idea. I'll have to fish out the Clubbie one and see if a magnet sticks to it. Especially since it's supposed to be the Titanial version.  Then do the same with the new rig.

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4 hours ago, BT_Blue said:

That's a great idea. I'll have to fish out the Clubbie one and see if a magnet sticks to it. Especially since it's supposed to be the Titanial version.  Then do the same with the new rig.

Well, I know for sure I wan't ripped off with my Wilson titanium.  No magnet sticking for me.

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